Carr and Latham’s technology of clothing manufacture / Revised by David J. Tyler . – 4th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and. As in previous editions, the processes of modern clothing manufacture are explained alongside the equipment which is used. The latest developments – as well. Details for Carr & Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture The processes of modern clothing manufacture are explained here, alongside the equipment.
|Published (Last):||3 September 2010|
|PDF File Size:||5.76 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||14.56 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
It is common practice to cut off from the point of the fork anearly triangular pattern piece, adding the seam widths to both newedges. Provision may have to be made for the same marker plan to be used many times.
Thus, apart from a small number ofoperations where some form of automatic machine can be used, theoperations in clothing manufacture are largely operator-controlled. Open fabric — rolled Most fabrics are supplied rolled as a single ply directly on to a dis- posable, tubular cardboard core about 7 to 8 cm in diameter.
These represent the other two spreading opportunities: Spreading a stepped lay may take less time than the alternative of several mixed- size lays, and this shorter time may be crucial if the sewing room is to be fed with cut parts on time.
This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. Even if a band knife is used for the maincutting operation, a straight knife will be used to separate the lay intosections for easier handling. These activities are oftenreferred to as ancillary handling. Marker production, which may include drawing the marker plan directly on to fabric, drawing it on to a paper marker by pen or automatic plotter, or, where the cutting method allows it, recording pattern piece information on the paper marker or on the fabric without actually drawing pattern lines on it.
Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife. A beam travels along thetable and a label dispenser travels along the beam, the x and y co-ordinates again giving the position. The surplus width is usually distributed outside the edge of the marker plan farthest from the spreading operator by aligning the straight edges of the plies nearest the operator.
Forced separation causes snagged edges and, in any case, the hard edge is uncomfortable in wear. All the pattern pieces are displayed inminiature at the top of the screen.
In some systems the label dis-penser also prints the labels; in others they are printed separately andloaded into the dispenser. These are available with an adjusting mechanism that con- trols the amount of spike showing above the table, and which also enables the complete spikes to be lowered after spreading lf allow for cutting or for moving of the lay along the table to a different cutting site. The marker containing the size 12 patterns would then beplaced on top of the 65 plies and the marker containing the size 14patterns on top of the 95 plies.
All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The various types of fabric, in terms of surface direction, clothjng are available designated two-way and one-way were described in the section on marker planning. Furthermore, the publisher ensures that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.
Fashion may be couture garments, setting the trends for a seasonand made in small quantities at high cost. Latest developments are described as well as established methods.
Carr & Lathams Technology of Clothing Manufacture –
Normally available strokes vary from 2. It repeats theprocess until it achieves the required number of plies. The chapter that has seen the most change is that on alternative joining technologies Chapter 6because of the major expansion of interest in welded seams and the use of adhesives. As stated previously, knifeblades are also available with wavy edges to reduce heat generationand the possibility of fusing synthetic materials.
Unfortunately, there are anumber of reasons, in addition to the production planning restrictionsgiven above, why this may not be possible. A view of a computer system for marker plan-ning, and pattern development and grading, is shown in Fig. In the simpler versions, the operatorclamps the free end of fabric in line with the end of the spread, pushesthe spreader to the other end, cuts off the ply in line with that end,clamps the beginning of the next ply, pushes the spreader to the otherend and so on.
In addition, garment manufacturers can reduce handling costs although In a non-stretch fabric practically allelongation of technollogy fabric occurs in such a manner that rapid relaxationand recovery ensues. More advanced spreading machines may include a motor to drivethe carriage, a platform on which the operator rides, a ply-cuttingdevice with automatic catcher to hold the ends of the ply in place, aply counter, an alignment shifter actuated by photo-electric edgeguides, a turntable, and a direct drive on the fabric support, synchro-nised with the speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in thefabric being spread.
This can require that some fabrics are spread with all the plies face up, some with all the plies face down and some face to face. Even then, it is sometimes more appropriate to mark the pattern lines directly on to the fabric rather than on to paper. The fourprocesses involved are: The process requires minimum attention since the plotter uses a xlothing roll of paper, and a series of markers can be plotted continuously.
In prin- ciple, automation is possible, but the cost is prohibitive.
Formats and Editions of Carr and Latham’s technology of clothing manufacture 
In the third edition, the role of the garment technologist in new product development was intro- duced. Interactive marker planning is more common and is the process bywhich the tehnology plans markers by interacting directly with thesystem through a VDU screen. A garment made from parts cut fromthese different pieces would be likely to show a shaded effect betweenits different panels.
This is not discussed in detail here. Also, in practice a lathaj part of a pattern such as a sleevehead, when placed abutting a straight edge, leads to either a shallow gouge in the straight edge or the crown of the curve being straightened.
Permissions Request permission to reuse content from this site.
Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture, 4th Edition
The planner uses a visual display unit VDU with keyboard, tablet and data pen, puck or mouse. Fashion trends are rarely technology led. In other words, a policy decision is made to let faults into the sewing room and to produce substandard gar- ments.
Second, spreading is a time-consuming operation. Home About Help Search. Although this plan can contain the parts for only one garment style, it normally contains the pattern pieces for a number of laham ments, usually in different sizes, interlocked together in the most economical manner.
A contrast with the sewing room situation described above is pro- vided by manufactyre activity of cutting which precedes it.